Northern Ireland Travel Update

By Ken Petchenik

Belfast's Merchant Hotel opened in 2006 in an Italianate- style bank that retains most of its heritage features, including sculptured figures and urns atop the building's façade. You can avoid having to climb the steep exterior staircase at the front by going to the side door, past the black iron, gold- embellished fence. Inside, the ornate High Victorian style of this listed property includes a restaurant encircled by a magnificent frieze adorned with fruit and foliage and plump cherubs sitting on Corinthian columns.

The Merchant has 21 rooms and five suites, all lavishly decorated with antiques, original art and custom-made furnishings. All have a desk, bureau, overstuffed chairs, flat-screen TV and CD/DVD player. Our only complaint was the insufficient lighting, which made it difficult just to see the contents of our suitcase, let alone attempt to read a book or newspaper. The spacious bathrooms have heated mirrors and towel bars. In some rooms, the bathroom is a step below the bedroom floor, a potential hazard in the middle of the night. The hotel has a billiard room, two bars, a nightclub, an adjacent pub and an art gallery. Guests have complimentary access to the Holiday Inn's leisure facilities. You can also hire the hotel's Bentley complete with chauffeur. Doubles from about $450 in summer; considerably lower out of season. 35-39 Waring Street. Tel: 44-289-023-4888. Fax: 44-289-024-7775. www.themerchanthotel.com.

When Bill Clinton went to Belfast in 1995 to help push forward the peace talks, he stayed at the Europa. Known as the most bombed hotel in Europe (targeted nine times by the IRA), the four-star hotel is popular with journalists and visiting VIPs. Pillars in front distinguished the hotel from the neighboring Grand Opera House, and an impressive burning fireplace warms the lobby. The 235 rooms and five suites are spacious and decorated with good taste, although not with the degree of elegance found in the Merchant Hotel. Red was the dominant color in our room, with its burl-faced bureau, desk and end tables. All rooms have a trouser press, iron and ironing board, coffeemaker, flat-screen digital TV and CD player. The large bathrooms have a separate shower. The hotel has a business center, two restaurants and a piano bar. Wheelchair accessible. Doubles from about $240. Great Victoria Street. Tel: 44-289- 027-1066. Fax: 44-289-032-7800. www.hastingshotels.com.

Deane's Restaurant & Bar, the first restaurant in Northern Ireland to receive a Michelin star, is surprisingly informal. Located a five-minute walk from the Europa, it`s one of four operated by Michael Deane. Our meal started with a very nice foie gras and chicken liver parfait with spice fig chutney and brioche. Pan-fried halibut with parsley and potato emulsion and smoked bacon accompanied by a peashoot salad was tasty but slightly too salty. Chocolate tart with Jersey ice cream had a wonderfully intense chocolate flavor. Dinner for two, before wine, about $140. 36-40 Howard Street. Tel: 44-289-033-1134. www.michaeldeane.co.uk.

On his visit to Londonderry (called Derry by the Catholics), the Dalai Lama stayed at the City Hotel, a short walk from the walls encircling the old city. The four-star hotel has 140 rooms and five suites. Ask for one overlooking the River Foyle. Our room had a fine view, but the décor was done by someone with no color sense--a rust carpet, two cream walls and one dark blue, two purple chairs, one black leather desk chair. The room was clean but the small bathroom had mold around the tub. There's a business center, a 49-ft. pool, gym, Jacuzzi, steam room and monsoon shower. We did not try the restaurant, but one can get a decent drink at the separate bar. Guest parking is free. Doubles from about $185. Queens Quay. Tel: 44-287-136-5800. www.cityhotelderry.com.

There's little doubt why Slieve Donard Resort & Spa in Newcastle was voted the Best Hotel in Northern Ireland in a TV poll. The castle-like red-brick railroad hotel was built in 1898 to accommodate people coming for "sea water baths." A spa, opened in 2006, is catering to their descendants. There are 172 rooms and six suites, varying in size and shape. All have contemporary furnishings and amenities. Try for a front-facing room for views of the Irish Sea and the Mourne mountains. The spa has a steam room, sauna, gym and Zen studio offering yoga and tai chi. Lights at night turn the pool into a romantic grotto. There's also a pub, lounge bar, juice bar and elegant restaurant serving a full Irish breakfast. The golf course at nearby Royal County Down draws champions, including Tiger Woods and Arnold Palmer, while adjacent to the course is an easier one, Annesley Links. Hotel doubles from about $400, including breakfast. Downs Rd. Tel: 44-284-372-1066. Fax: 44-284-372-4830. www.hastingshotels.com.

Hugh Rice is an excellent guide for tours through Northern Ireland. His credentials are impressive and he can also take you to any destination in the Irish Republic. Tel: 44-289-028-0925. Cell: 44-779-888-4538. Email: hugh.rice@ntlworld.com.

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